Marco Vichi, MORTE A FIRENZE, Tea, ristampa 2025
\nAttraversando il ponte delle Grazie vide che l’Arno si era ingrossato e rallentò il passo, affascinato da quella massa d’acqua scura che scivolava silenziosa tagliando in due la città. [p. 79]
\nSenza fermarsi sbirciò oltre la spalletta. L’Arno era sempre più gonfio, fluttuante di spruzzi fangosi, e scorreva veloce producendo un mormorio cupo. Non doveva essere divertente caderci dentro in quel momento. [p. 83]
\nGuardavano l’Arno che correva rapido sotto i ponti, gonfio e scuro come non si era mai visto.[p. 147]
Vide l’Arno gonfio come il dorso di una balena. [p. 153]
«Hai visto come piove?» disse Rosa, mangiucchiando qualcosa.
\n«Sono settimane che piove, Rosa.»
\n«Non così forte… e se fosse il diluvio universale?»
\n«C’è già stato, Rosa. Non credo che Dio si ripeta.» [p. 153]
Alle tre la grande piena dell’Arno arriva a Firenze. Sulla riva sinistra, tra il ponte alle grazie e il ponte Santa Trinità, le fogne rigurgitano fango. [p. 161]
Il rombo del fiume impetuoso sembra un mare forza nove, e la ringhiera di ferro intorno alla statua di Benvenuto Cellini vibra come una corda di contrabbasso. Si sentono i tonfi degli alberi che si abbattono contro i pilastri del ponte. Tra i flutti fangosi si vedono passare cadaveri di mucche, automobili, armadi sfasciati, un grosso pullman che caracolla come una balena morta. [p. 162]
\nLa corrente ha una velocità impressionante, travolge le automobili, sfonda portoni e saracinesche, riversando nelle strade ciò che ha rubato nel Valdarno, animali morti, alberi, mobili fatti a pezzi, bidoni di nafta… Crolla il Lungarno Corsini. Alle otto in via dei Neri, dove abita Rosa, ci sono tre metri d’acqua, e il livello continua a salire… [p. 164]
\nA un tratto l’acqua ebbe una specie di sobbalzo, e cominciò ad alzarsi più in fretta. In dieci minuti guadagnò più di mezzo metro, correndo sempre più veloce, gorgogliando, trascinando ogni cosa. Le automobili sbattevano nei muri, cozzavano tra di loro, buttavano giù i segnali stradali. Passò uno scaldabagno a tutta birra e colpì l’angolo di piazza Pratellina con un gran botto. Sulla superficie del fango si allungavano le striature nere, oleose, della nafta uscita dalle caldaie. Le persone affacciate al primo piano sparirono una dopo l’altra, e riapparvero poco dopo al piano superiore. Quelli che abitavano nelle case più basse salirono sul tetto, e si sedettero sulle tegole con gli ombrelli sulla testa. [p. 168]
\nIl tempo si era come fermato. L’unico movimento era la massa melmosa che scorreva nelle strade, guadagnando centimetri sulle facciate dei palazzi. Non si poteva fare nulla, se non aspettare, guardare il mostro di fango che gonfiava tra le case. [p. 168]
\nPassavano le ore, i minuti, i secondi. Nessuno poteva fare nulla, solo guardare l’acqua putrida che scorreva nella strada. Alle cinque il cielo comincio a scurirsi, e la gente alle finestre lanciava lunghe occhiate verso l’alto. Le persone accovacciate sui tetti sembravano grossi uccelli spauriti. Al chiarore lugubre del tramonto il fiume di fango aveva un’aria terribile, era impossibile non pensare ai fiumi infernali nominati da Dante… Lor corso in questa valle si diroccia, fanno acheronte, stige e flegetonta… poco dopo fu notte. Sui davanzali si accesero le fiammelle di decine di candele, e la fuga dei palazzi diventò il colombario di un enorme cimitero. Il fiume di melma rallentò ancora, sciaguattando morbidamente contro i muri delle case. A un tratto si fermò del tutto, e sul quartiere calò un silenzio di tomba. Era lo stesso silenzio opprimente che Bordelli aveva sentito durante la guerra, in certe notti d’inverno. [pp. 170-171]
\nPoche ore prima due candele non erano nulla, ma la furia dell’Arno aveva sovvertito l’ordine dei valori. [p. 172]
\nSotto il cielo limpido, lo spettacolo era ancora più desolante. Il fango se n’era andato quasi del tutto, lasciando in regalo automobili sfasciate, portoni sfondati e saracinesche sventrate, macerie di ogni genere portare dalla furia della corrente. Una spessa riga di nafta ancora umida segnava i muri a più di tre metri d’altezza. In lontananza si sentiva il suono lamentoso di molte sirene, e il motore regolare degli elicotteri. I fantasmi della notte cominciavano a uscire di casa, pallidi, sfiniti, lo sguardo incredulo. Sciaguattavano nella melma con gli stivali o con le scarpe fasciate da sacchetti di plastica legati alle caviglie. [p. 174]
\nUn’anta del portone pendeva da un cardine, l’altra era stata divelta e galleggiava nell’atrio. Lo scostò con le mani e uscì in strada, con l’acqua poco sotto il ginocchio. L’aria era irrespirabile. Le figure umane che si muovevano trai mucchi di detriti sembravano anime dannate. In fondo alla via, dalla parte di borgo San Frediano, un albero si era incastrato nel vano di un portone. Sembrava di essere in una città bombardata. [pp. 174-175]
\nUn popolo di scope ramazzava il fango fuori dagli androni e i detriti delle botteghe venivano ammassati sul marciapiede. Sembrava di vedere l'Italia dell'immediato dopoguerra, o forse anche peggio. Una donnina con un fazzoletto legato sotto il mento piangeva in silenzio, trasportando fuori dalla sua bottega mucchi di verdura imputridita. Quando sbucò in piazza Nazario Sauro, senti l'Arno che rumoreggiava. La piazzetta era ingombra di macchine sfasciate, alcune a pancia all'aria. Una 850 contorta era finita di traverso sopra il tetto di una grossa berlina. Chissà quanto tempo ci sarebbe voluto, per rimettere le cose a posto. Prosegui in via di Santo Spirito. Dappertutto la scena era la stessa. Distruzione, macerie, fango. Facce ingrugnite e olio di gomito. Ogni tanto si sentiva volare una battuta amara, e qualcuno sorrideva di traverso. Lo strato di melma puzzolente che stagnava nelle strade rendeva ancora più lugubre una città attraversata nei secoli da sanguinose congiure, da intrighi feroci, tradimenti, inganni, imbrogli, una città da sempre dominata da tensioni morbose dissimulate sotto la falsa giocosità di una battuta. Con le lacrime agli occhi si spalava il fango e si scherzava già sull'alluvione, si inventavano barzellette nell'eterno sforzo di non soccombere.
\nE adesso Firenze tremava, perché il suo tesoro era stato inzaccherato dal fango. Ricchi o poveri non faceva alcuna differenza. [p. 179]
\nPiù avanti un barcone di legno scivolava silenzioso sul fango, trasportando vecchi e bambini. [p. 181]
\n«Dal terrazzino ho visto tutto… l’acqua saliva, saliva… correva sempre più forte…le macchine sbattevano contro i muri… sembravano bombe… ho visto passare anche dei morti… oddio che paura» [p. 181]
\nDappertutto era la stessa cosa: cadaveri di animali, alberi sradicati, scaldabagni, televisori, cumuli di frutta ridotta in poltiglia e centinaia di carcasse di automobili da regalare agli sfasciacarrozze. Vide addirittura una distesa di pesci morti e un paio di barconi arenati. Nelle zone ormai libere dall'acqua, i mucchi di rifiuti ammassati fuori dai negozi erano sempre più alti. Il puzzo di nafta ammorbava l'aria fino a stordire, soprattutto nelle vie più strette. Ogni tanto si vedevano passare mezzi anfibi dell'esercito, qualche jeep, camion dei pompieri e ambulanze. Il suono delle sirene rotolava sui tetti e spandeva sulla città un doloroso senso incertezza, ma il rumore più familiare era quello delle scope che strusciavano sul fango. La porta di piazza Beccaria sbocciava in mezzo a un mucchio di automobili finite una sull'altra. Le vie di accesso al centro erano bloccate dai mezzi militari. Sui viali c'era traffico, e le ruote biascicavano nella melma. Bordelli attraverso la piazza e imbocco via Gioberti, guardando la riga nera della nafta che attraversava le finestre del primo piano. […] Come si aspettava, il famoso portone era stato sfondato dall'acqua. Scavalcò la soglia per toccare con mano la sua sconfitta. Quattro stanze, completamente devastate dal fango. I pavimenti erano cosparsi di detriti. Una porticina conduceva in un sottosuolo, pieno d'acqua fino all'orlo. Accese l'ultima sigaretta e buttò il pacchetto per terra. L'Arno aveva cancellato l'ultima speranza, aveva tagliato l'unico sottilissimo filo che avrebbe potuto, forse, portare fuori dal labirinto. [pp. 182-183]
\nLa confusione aumentava di ora in ora. I volontari arrivavano dai quartieri non alluvionati, dalle città e dai paesi vicini, dalle altre regioni e alcuni anche dall'estero. Erano donne e uomini di tutte le età. Da Siena arrivò un intero camion di pane, pagato da un privato. Alcuni negozianti portavano spontaneamente generi alimentari presi nei loro magazzini. […] In mezzo a piazza Santa Croce l'enorme Dante di marmo osservava schifato la melma puzzolente che stagnava ai suoi divini piedi, e i suoi occhi sdegnati sembravano brillare di una luce cattiva. Tutto intorno, saracinesche e portoni sventrati, auto sfasciate, frantumi di mobilia, ferraglia contorta, enormi fasci di sterpaglie, cumuli di fango, carcasse di animali e alberi portati da chissà dove. Una bomba avrebbe fatto meno danno. Il puzzo prendeva alla gola. Sulla facciata bianca della chiesa spiccava una spessa riga nera. Sembrava impossibile che l'acqua fosse arrivata così in alto. Dopo il tramonto, dall'alto del Piazzale Michelangelo fu acceso un potente riflettore militare per illuminare la piccola Piazza dei Cavalleggeri, dove decine di studenti e di studentesse continuavano senza sosta a passarsi di mano in mano i preziosi libri della Biblioteca Nazionale. Si ritrovò nella notte sopra un barcone di legno, nelle vie ancora allagate di Gavinana, a scivolare sull'acqua stagnante con una lampada in mano... Caron dimonio, con occhi di bra gia... [pp. 189-190]
\nDissero che a Firenze le cose stavano tornando alla normalità, ma i fiorentini sapevano bene che era una balla. Nelle strade c'erano ancora tonnellate di fango e di detriti e migliaia di carcasse di auto da portare via. In alcune zone mancava la luce, il telefono, il gas, e addirittura l'acqua. Molti negozianti e artigiani avevano perso tutto e non avevano la possibilità di ricominciare il loro lavoro. Centinaia di famiglie non potevano ancora rientrare nelle loro case, ed erano state sistemate negli alberghi a spese del comune. Le autopompe lavoravano giorno e notte per togliere il fango dai sotterranei degli edifici pubblici, e migliaia di uomini, di donne, di militari e di studenti sguazzavano ancora nel fango. Code per i viveri allo stadio, davanti ai rari negozi aperti, intorno alle autobotti. L'ospedale di Careggi pieno come un uovo. Senza contare le opere d'arte e le migliaia di libri antichi ricoperti di fango e di nafta. E nella provincia le cose stavano anche peggio... Eccola, la normalità. [p. 320]
\nNella notte tra il 3 e il 4 novembre del 1966, dopo giorni di pioggia incessante, l’Arno esonda e allaga Firenze. In assenza di una rete di monitoraggio, l’esondazione non viene preannunciata e i fiorentini vengono colti di sorpresa e si trovano a lottare per la vita. Complessivamente saranno 35 le vittime nella regione. Quando l’Arno si ritira, lascia la città sotto 660mila tonnellate di fango. Elemento chiave di questa emergenza è la capacità di risposta della gente comune, della “cittadinanza attiva” arrivata da ogni parte d’Italia e da Paesi esteri per offrire aiuto a una città in ginocchio: “gli angeli del fango”.
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